APRIL 2020 – GIMBLETT GRAVELS
Twelve of the Best
Expressing a single and important winegrowing site – its soil, other physical characteristics and climate - through a platform of different varieties and winemaking is uncommon (Clos Vougeot from Côte de Nuits & Les Clos from Chablis – both in Burgundy, France are examples of the practice). In New Zealand only a few sites exist. The Gimblett Gravels in Hawkes Bay is the largest and most significant. Covering just 800ha, gravelly soils were first laid down by the course of the old Ngaruroro River, and became exposed after a significant flood in the 1860’s – creating what is now known as Gimblett Gravels.
In 2001, the winegrowers & producers working this piece of land banded together to protect the integrity of this special site, and the Gimblett Gravels Winegrowers Association was formed. As the brand grew in strength and quality the Association decided to create a collection of twelve wines representing the best of each vintage, and put them under the noses and on the palates of wine writers and experts in New Zealand and overseas. 2020 marks the tenth release of these, showcasing the 2017 vintage across six syrah and six red blends. Each subsequent release is designed to chart the evolution and progression of the wines from this unique site. If you’re a fan of the Cabernet family, Merlot or Syrah then I recommend you consider adding the following fine New Zealand wines to your cellar.
Vidal Soler Syrah 2017
Garrigue and peppery sweet meat aromas are layered between raspberry and black currant, violets and whispers of wood smoke. Very expressive on the palate with an abundance of chalk and crumbled stone textured tannins & a back bone of acidity. A beautifully weighted wine with a core of fruit, wood spice & baking spices, dried meats and wood smoke collectively offering excellent drinking now and through 2025. Decanting recommended. RRP$34.99
Smith & Sheth Syrah 2017 Heretaunga
There’s no mistaking the seam of pepper, a steely almost haunting mineral line of stones then old roses and violets. Delicious on the palate with great texture, grip and drive. Dry, toasty, fruity and spicy with fine to chalky wood tannins and an equal measure of acidity frame the fruit and spice flavours. A lovely wine that is developing nicely and will continue to do so over the coming 1-3 years. Great drinking through 2026. RRP$40.00
Squawking Magpie Syrah 2017
Blackcurrant, plum and old raspberry aromas lead to scents of toasty wood and baking spices, peppercorn and crushed rock. Very tense with lots of nervous energy helped along with bold tannins and a back bone of acidity. Second & third sips reveal flavours of raspberry, tart plum and cherry. A wine for the cellar with best drinking 2022 through 2030. RRP$33.95
Elephant Hill Stone Syrah 2017
Seductive, elegant and complex with a core of fruit and spice, warm and fuller-bodied appeal. Numerous flavours from dark raspberry, ripe blackcurrant, plum, liquorice root, violets, iron and marmite. Sophisticated tannins and bold acid line add a fine texture and a fleshy fruit layer meld them all together. Delicious now, but will also benefit from some cellar time if you can wait. Best drinking from late 2020 through 2025. RRP$75.00
Elephant Hill Airavata Syrah 2017
Complex and detailed bouquet with the allure of new French oak, ripe red berries, dark plums, fragrant spices and pepper. Weighty, fruity and complex with an abundance of fine fruit tannins & more textured toasty oak tannins. A delicious yet very youthful wine, complex and fine. Decanting is a must for service between now and its ideal drinking window 2021 through 2029. RRP$120.00
Trinity Hill Homage Syrah 2017
Intense, layered, perfumed and complex. From violets and dark berries to sweet vanilla oak to stony soil fragrances - there’s a lot to take in on the first breath & taste. Dark berry and black cherry to dark raspberry, black pepper and liquorice straps. Chalky textured tannins and pure almost piercing acid line this is an amazing wine and I could happily drink a couple of glasses right now, but is best left till 2021 then enjoy through 2028. RRP$145.00
Mission Estate Winery Barrique Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2017
A pure Cabernet bouquet with aromas of sweet violets, fresh blackberry and whispers of plum, iron, stones and smoky toasty oak. Everything plays out on the palate with flavours of toasty wood and vanilla, dark berries, pencil lead, a light tobacco moment, flowers and dry-stone earthy qualities. With firm tannins and plenty of acidity, great balance and length this fine wine can be decanted and served today, but best in your cellar till late 2021 then drink through to 2029. RRP$30.00
Smith & Sheth CRU Cantera Omahu Cabernets Sauvignon & Franc with Tempranillo 2017
Baking spices and sweet meats, fresh raspberries, dark plums and cinnamon sticks. Olive and baked bell-pepper, toasty wood and sweet earth. There’s no doubt that complexity and the layers of aromas are captivating. Generous, almost sweet tasting on the palate with an abundance of oak and ripe fruit, brown spices and cassis. A fine chalky tannin feel, nice acid line and a core of fruit this wine is deceptively complex and lengthy. Totally drinkable today and through 2025. RRP$60.00
Craggy Range Single Vineyard Te Kahu Merlot Cabernets Franc & Sauvignon 2017
Aromas of wood spice and toasty French oak give way to scents of dark plums, blackberry and olive. Fruity, fleshy, dry and tense all at the same time with flavours of dark berries and clove, plums and vanilla, firm ripe tannins and plenty of acidity. A lovely wine with pleasure from all corners of the palate. Drinkable today and through 2025. Decant for service. RRP$29.95
Trinity Hill The Gimblett Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc 2017
Fabulous bouquet of dark berries and crushed rocks, sweet cigar tobacco, plums, purple flowers and vanilla. On the palate - fruity, tannic, spicy and dry with flavours of dark berries and wood spices, firm textured tannins and baked bell-pepper. All the youthful vibrant fruits and engaging textures are still speed-dating so either decant and serve or wait. If you can wait then best drinking 2021 through 2028. RRP$40.00
Squawking Magpie SQM Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc 2017
Blackberries and Doris plums, cloves and baked bell-pepper, hay, cocoa and violets. Full-bodied with classic Bordeaux-esq flavours, textures and messages of weight and intensity, firm tannins and commanding acidity. Flavours of tobacco and dark berries, red flowers and pencil lead, hay and wood spice repeat across the palate offering a core of complexity and promise. I’m looking forward to seeing this wine develop over the next 2-3 years then age gracefully through to 2030+. RRP$79.00
Sacred Hill Helmsman Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Cabernet Franc 2017
Smoke and dark berries, tobacco and dark plums, olive, hay, violets and vanilla. Bold and full-bodied with flavours of sweet oak, an abundance of tannins to match & contrast a core of fruit, baked goods and cigar box impressions. A wine for the cellar - those tannins need taming. Dry lengthy finish, complex and intriguing. Best drinking from 2022 through 2030. RRP$84.99
