2026 marks the 50th anniversary of the Judgement of Paris tasting. Wines from California outclassed those from Burgundy in a tasting that changed the landscape and understanding of California wines. California wines were already climbing the ladder of quality for some time, yet the ‘judgement’ accelerated the popularity and plantings of vines throughout California that the modern era of wine in the state now had the attention of the world.

I was lucky to be able to meet and discuss wine with Steven Spurrier at the Decanter World Wine Awards, a few years ago now, even then his wisdom about wine could silence a room as he spoke.

The California Wines entity are a focused team bringing the modern stories of California wines and the goal of a resiliant future through showcasing what is happening in the state through a series of tours and tastings. The tour of April 2026 included a group of media from around the world including one from Aotearoa New Zealand, me.

A rather big thank you to Kate Venugopal, Ceci De La Montanya, Paula Orescovich, Hiro Tejima, and many more. You all played a part in the organisation and delivery of this Resiliant Future wine immersion media trip through some beautiful and enlightening parts of northern California. Thank you also to the drivers at Pure Luxury for keeping is safe on the roads.

The night before

The tour really began the night before when all the invited media guests met at the Number 1 Hotel on the corner of Mission and the Embarcadero right near the San Francisco Bay and Bay bridge. Our hosts Ceci, Kate, Paula and for one evening only - Elaine Brown. Elaine is a highly respected wine writer and author, an authority of California wine and speaker. Elaine presented the overview of California through the lens of a few wines over dinner, answering myriad questions that drove the conversation and set the scene for the next few days. One of the themes that was woven into the dialogue for the forthcoming days was not just resilience, it also included sustainability and a wine industry under immense pressure from global forces and a time when drinking wine is not as popular as it once was. That depends too on who to talk to. Thank you Elaine.

One of the themes also key to this trip is sustainability and the future of the wine sector in the state. The title of this tour included the idea of resilience in an industry which, at the time of writing, is under immense pressure from global forces, not the least of which was a downward trend in wine consumption, a world where Gen Y , Z and more than a few Millennials are considering every beverage they might consume very carefully. For a significant number no alcohol at all, for others it is engagement with wine and alcohol when they choose, how often and without the pressures of parents, some trends, wine scores and fancy labels. The influences from social media are playing a role in some of this decision making. Another key global pressure currently is the crisis of war(s).

Day 1

Camus Suisun Winery. Dry farmed. Started in 1972, planted cereal grains, walnuts, and grapes sold to existing wineries, late 1960s started a winery, named Camus. First vintage 1972 @ $4.00 a bottle. Fast-forward nearly almost all planted to Cabernet Sauvignon. Became an AVA in 1983 named Suisun. We took an off-road trip ( 1.5 minute drive) to their experimental vineyard planted with ‘Cabernet Sauvignon Volos’ see pics below. Crown pruning style. Camus Suisun are also experimenting with Assyrtiko, Nero D'Avola, and Negro Armaro. PDR Pierces Disease Resistant vines also planted along with Petit Syrah and many other varieties including Sauvignon Kretos, a hybrid from Sauvignon Blanc.

Cover crops are used with mustard and legumes, tilled in to allow and promote dry farming.

Overall production volume - 24 wines, most are distributed within the USA, with 'Bonanza' the largest production, a non-vintage wine, lot 11 about to be released - 550K cases. Bottling twice a year based on demand. Held in tank. Conundrum white and red also made.

Winery production capped at 5 million gallons red wine. 250K gallons of white wine at the other winery.

Formal tasting:
First: CS Volos - A barrel sample, decent colour with a CS bouquet of dark berries and sweet red fruit scents, ripe. Floral with a violet note then clay silty soil suggestions, some oak. Dry touching the palate, dusty tannins, medium++ acidity. Warm, fruity, somewhat simple though tasty, some fresh reductive youthful ideas. 89 Points Solid

Second: The Walking Fool 2024, red blend from Zinfandel, Petit Sirah . A distinctive bouquet packed with violets and red berries, lots of black cherry and raspberry, clay, wood and wood spices of dusty clove and vanilla pod. Plenty of fine polished tannins, fruity and very fresh style. Well made, balanced and drinking well now, Some core fruit sweetness. 90 Points VG

Third: Nouveau 2025, dessert wine style. Made with Touriga Nacional. A bouquet of leather and boot polish, dark berries, boysenberry and lots of fruit spice, raisin and plum. 80% S-Steel, aged for 2 months in oak. Abv %, grape spirit from own wine distilled. Warm with noted abv, medium+ acidity. Balanced and sweet, drinking nicely now. 90 Points.

Brands under the Camus Suisun brand include - see image

Second visit. Signorello winery (see pics)
Began outdoors with some introduction, lunch and casual tasting - then a seated more formal tasting and panel discussion; some questions from the travelling media.

Cakebread Cellars 2025 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - Varietal with a green melon and some gooseberry, a layer of grapefruit and whisper of sage and bell-pepper. Dry, fruity, balanced, siple yet tasty and salivating. 89 Points well made in a drink now expression.

Duckhorn Sauvignon Blanc 2025, North Coast (Screwcap - yay!). Varietal with some power and drive. Varietal and fresh, salivating and dry. Flavours of golden kiwi and citrus, cape gooseberry and white fleshed orchard fruits. Dry, plenty of acidity and freshness, touch of salinity. Floral and fresh, balanced and well made. 90 Points - a Premium expression

Signorello Estate 'Hope's Cuvee' Chardonnay '24. Varietal and classic with, big and bold. 14.4% abv with a bouquet and palate of apple and peach, some quince then fruit and barrel spices, vanilla and clove. Some dusty tannins from the wood, medium+ acid line. Well made then a little warm from the abv. Lengthy, crisp and drinking well now. 90 Points.

Haynes Vineyard 'Forgeron' Chardonnay '23. 12.5% abv. Great bouquet of ripe white fleshed tree fruits, citrus peel, touch of pith and positive reduction complexity. Inviting and new. A lovely wine built around texture and judicious winemaker inputs. Fine fruit tannins and backbone of acidity, fresh orchard fruits of grapefruit and red apple, some new barrel moments, a wine in a plush drinking window. Made in puncheons and fuders, around 20 months. 93 Points - an excellent wine.

Hudson 'Ladybug' Chardonnay '23, Carneros, Napa. Aromas of peach and nut, spice and burnt nut, some butter moments. Grapefruit and peach, apple and stony clay layers. Warm and spicy, plenty of oak and fruit. 14.8% abv. She's a warm wine. Overall though, some classic qualities, plenty of acidity and palate impact. Best with food. 90 Points - I like this wine for its completeness.

Tasting and discussion - red wines.

Introductions first and some comments about what they do and how they are preparing for the future of wine farming
Kelli White panel lead - what happens next, 'our industry is in a very interesting place'.
Jesscia from Cakebread Cellars. Regenerative farming, "building resilience through the vineyards"." soil is considered a living part of viticulture, measuring microbes". "Planting hedgerows and cover crops, a bio-stimulant already on the seeds that arrive for the cover crops. Tailoring cover crops to the specific land". "Sap analysis to measure brix and help inform understanding.

"If we are leaning into nature, we can start backing away from the inputs".

Peter Willmert from Hudson Wines (CEO) 800 Ha, also a livestock ranch. "Employee retention VIP, the immigration policy of the USA remains unresolved. Buying some houses for our employees helps a lot, helping them into a retirement plan. Things like this help inform us and future plan." Fire mitigation: "build places impervious to fire, goats and sheep to graze down the tinder material, vineyard workers in slow times of the year working on clearing potential fire areas".

Shiloh from Duckhorn "how do we evolve with the consumer, I share a lot with the industry, understanding generational and cultural differences, I'm balancing realism with optimism. We like to talk about what it is now, not so much anymore about longevity. Capturing the wine curious."

Tasting
First: Hudson Syrah '23. Opaque, very dark reds through the wine, pink at the rim, lots of stains in the tears. Ripe and tense, a heady bouquet with concentrated black raspberries and Doris plums, lots of blue fruits, noticeable oak with clove and baking spices. Some reductive moments. Complex and new. Intense as the wine strikes the palate, warmth and spices then immediately earthy and fruity with tautness from tannins and a backbone of acidity. The fruit flavours reflect the bouquet with concentration and impact. Long and persistent. 93 Points VVG.

Duckhorn Vineyards Merlot '23 . Deep red, almost opaque, some magenta and ruby hues. Some colour staining of the tears. Ripe and fruity with some distinctive wood and lees impacts, the fruits of plum and boysenberry then some black cherry moments. Dry, some tension with acidity and gently warming alcohol frame flavours of dark plum and blue fruits, boysenberry and spices of clove and Tahitian vanilla pod, a touch of boot polish then a violet quality. Balanced and well made, drinking well now and foe the next 10+ years. 93 Points. VG.

Heitz Cellars Cabernet '21, Napa. Dark red, purple and ruby hues with a pink rim and colour staining in the tears. Blackberry with some blackcurrant then boysenberry and violets, some smoky oak and baking spies from wood qualities. Floral moments expand as the wine is swirled and released. Lovely weight and impacts on the palate driven by a concentration of fruit leaning more towards red and blue then black, tannins are distinctive and in abundance accentuated by the acid line. Persistent flavours, balanced alcohol, harmonious yet youthfully taut. Some poise and lots of style. A wine suited to food, for me, well made with a lengthy finish. VG. 93 Points.

Cakebread Cellars Viewfinder Cabernet Sauvignon '23. Opaque and very dark red at the core persistent to the rim where it changes to red with a touch of pink. Concentrated bouquet of dark red fruits of black and blueberry, violets and dark plums, chocolate and dark baking spices, new and fresh. Taut and dry with firm tannins, plenty of polish and style with a backbone of acidity leading to a lengthy finish, Balanced and well made, a wine to drink or keep. 94 Points - Buy!

Signorello Estate Cabernet 20** . Completely opaque, very dark red black at the core persistent through to the rim where it changes to pink and ruby. Dark fruited and perfumed with blackberry and currant, a core of violets and wood smoke, earth and tilled soils, chocolate and cacao, a touch of soy and new leather. Dry, a lovely mouthfeel and texture with an abundance of fine tannins and an acid line that adds both freshness and enhances the fruit flavour impacts. Persistent and repeats with each taste. Lengthy and well made with a generous complexity. 94 Points - a lovely example.

Day 2

Grgich Hills Estate
Our gracious hosts - the Grgich Family.

A welcome and introduction by Violet Grgich, President and CEO, Grgich Hills Estate

A site of Bio-diversity & Regenerative Farming

Then a fascinating, fun and lively presentation from Ivo Jeramaz, Vice-President of Vineyards and Production and Winemaker

Thank you also to the team who poured wines and kept us, and Ivo, on time.

A walk through some of the vineyards to see, smell and watch the birds, interrow plantings and a vineyard alive with activity.

Wines tasted
In recognition and reference to the ‘Judgement of Paris’ tasting - 2023 Chardonnay, purity of fruit first with fresh white fleshed stone fruit (from the Carneros site SV planted 1989) from the Wente clone, mineral, fresh and very enticing, some soft natural reductive moments. Dry, pure fruited, medium++ acid line (no sulphites brown juice precipitates out), delicious, ripe and balanced. A delicious wine with (partial MLF) a lengthy finish, satin texture, some crunch and power. 95 Points. Old oak, fuders used. Just delicious!

2021 Cabernet Sauvignon, 'Paradise Block' A core of red and ruby with a light magenta. Planted 1959, bold expression with a core of fresh, ripe red berries, natural fruit spice and sound judicious oak, spice and smoke layer. Dry, gently firm, fine polished tannins are in abundance with polish and precision. Persistent, balanced, taut and youthful, lengthy and well made. 93 Points - excellent.

The Donum Estate Wines.
A Regenerative Landscape — Vineyards, Farm & Art

Hosts:

Angelica de Vere-Mabray, CEO, Donum Estate

Tony Chapman, Senior Director of Winegrowing, Donum Estate

Anne Vignaud, Head of Brand & Communications, Donum Estate

TFV Chardonnay '24. From Carneros: Very nice purity of fruit with a mix of citrus and white fleshed stone fruits, A finesse of oak wood and oak spice, fine tannins and medium+ acid line. Taut and bright, some precision, some silty clay-like qualities. Fresh and bright, a delicious edge. A BF wine, around 70% wild ferment. Aged 14 months. 93 Points.

Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay '24 from Anderson valley: A bouquet of site then fruit, feels more intense soil ideas, rocks and spice, white fleshed stone fruits, apple and citrus. Nice weight and purity with persistent. Practically no tannins, flavours and freshness, medium+ length. An VG example. 92 Points

Three Hills Pinot Noir Donum Vineyard '24, Carneros: Very bright and fresh, varietal and fruity with a core of raspberry and cherry fruits, some red apple skin and boysenberry scents. Soil smoke of clay and silt, fine pebbles and tilled soil. Dry with a gentle firmness from and abundance of fruit tannins and bold acid line. Persistent, a wine with pinosity and freshness, youth and plenty of tautness. Persistent flavours with a medium+ length. 92 Points VG.

Churchview Vineyard Pinot Noir '24 West Sonoma: Very attractive bouquet of richer darker red berry fruits, plenty of ripeness and intensity with darker plums and black currant scents, a mineral core too with darker tilled, fresh soils and silty clay ideas. Dry, taut and firm with core flavours of red fruits framed by tension and poise, some quietly spoken positive reductive qualities layering in complexity and warmth. Delicious with fruit and wood tannin impacts, medium++ acidity. Delicious and a lovely wine with pinosity and style. 94 Points - Excellent.

Pinole Pinot Noir '24 Savoy Vineyard, Anderson Valley - fruity with boysenberry and plum, plenty of red cherry and gentle lift, varietal and youthful. Measure of wood is noticed though not too much. Dry, taut and filled with textures, firm tannins and plenty of acidity, saline and mineral, stony-like tilled soils, olive and button mushroom, a dried savoury herb quality. Youthful and fresh. 93 Points Excellent.

Perrygulch Pinot Noir '24, Savoy Vineyard, Anderson Valley: Great core of red and ruby, some pinkness at the rim. Vibrant and intense, velvet tannins and a backbone of acidity frame core fruit flavours of boysenberry and raspberry, dried raspberry and red apple. Great mouthfeel and length, youthful and very taut, some poise and vibrato. Delicious though very young. 94 Points Excellent

Boontling Pinot Noir '24, Savoy Vineyard, Anderson Valley: A more complete wine in bouquet and palate, core ripeness of red berry fruits, plums and raspberry then cherry flesh and spices of fruit then wood. ry with a mix of dusty through firm tannins, plenty of acidity and drive with a quiet elegance and long finish. Fresh and wild flowers, a fine savoury and dried herb quality. Lengthy finish. 94 Points - Excellent

Lunch - Tour and Tasting at Benzinger Wines

Delicious lunch followed by a multiple producer tasting opportunity then a brief tour of the property

Sustainability Leadership with Green Medal Recipients

Hosts

Chris Benziger, vintner, Benziger Family Winery
Allison Jordan, California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance (CSWA)

Guest Wineries

Laura Barrett, winemaker, Clif Family Winery
Remi Cohen, CEO, Domaine Carneros Winery
Agustin Santi, vineyard manager, CHANDON
Brooke Shenk, winemaker, St. Supéry Estate Vineyards & Winery
Hailey Trefethen, president, Trefethen Family Vineyards
Caroline Merrell, senior director, sustainable winemaking, Jackson Family Wines

Opening comments”

Alison Jordan. 95% family owned vineyards still. 4th largest wine producing region in the world. "Environment, Community, Business, leader awards".
California Green Medal awards.

Chandon Vineyard manager - founded 1973, French owned sparkling wine producer in Napa. MT sparkling wines. Initiative, water usage, recycled water, precision irrigation, soil data, irrigation automation. Regen' practices, planting of oak trees, pollinating plants.
Wines to taste - prestige cuvees, Carneros.

Laura Barret, WM Cliff Family Winery. 90 acres farmed, 12 varieties, Sustainable foundation under 5 pillars:
B-Corp Certified . Project - package weight and reducing waste. Lightweight glass, no foils, naked corks, screen-printing of label art, no shipping foils. Case weight 38 pounds

Remy Cohen - Domaine Carneros. Est 1980s, from Champagne Taittinger, certification as a guide and motivation to do more and better. 2003 established the largest solar array at that time. 2014 Earthquake and fires in 2017. Microgrid - AI tech through the solar array - if the power goes out, battery storage.

Caroline Merril, Jackson Family Wines
Green Medal - Sustainability program. Decarbonising the wine industry, Good land stewards, Water, people.
IWCA International wineries for climate change. Support, Greenhouse gas omissions calculator. Create pilot projects.

Hailee Trefethen Family Vineyards:
First vintage 1973, close the loop on what comes on or leaves the property. Set up a central drain, recycling water into 2 reservoirs, grow 10 varieties, early through late ripening.

In the tasting room

Chandon Prestige Brut: 5 years aged, PN Ch blend. No mistaking the leesy autolysis of oatmeal and cereals, a distinctive bouquet also with apple and white fleshed fruits, citrus and white flowers. Dry, crisp, salivating and saline. Delicious and fresh with persistent flavours and vibrant mouthfeel. VG 93 Points
Chandon Rose: An excellent bouquet, floral and attractive, cherry fruits and baked goods, an intense autolysis and drive. Leesy, fruity, ripe and fresh, dry and textured with high acidity and chalky mouthfeel. Well made and generous, long dry finish with autolysis. 94 Points.

Wines from Oak Knoll
Rose of Cabernet Franc - Juicy, fleshly, ripe and delicious, flavours of red apple and quince, light red champagne berries, fine lees and a steely backbone of acidity. Fresh and lively, a perfect Summer wine. 92 Points.
Red - Cabernet Sauvignon with small amount of CF, Mlbc and PV: Very bright, ripe and fruity with a distinctive earthy and stony clay soil quality. Fuller-bodied, dry, firm and youthful, a wine that needs time to pull together, all the ripeness and fruit centric qualities make the palate salivate and begin to dissolve the tannins. Taut and new, firm tannins, backbone of acidity. Decent length 94 Points, needs time.

Domaine Carneros Vintage Brut '22: 3 yrs on lees, 50/50 Ch to PN, 100% Estate fruit, Ripe and fruity, the autolysis is distinctive, biscuity and precise. Apples and pears, white peach and fresh lemon pith. Dry, crisp and lengthy, well made, persistent citrus fruit flavours and finish. 93 Points.

Brut Rose Cuvee La pampador. 40% Chardonnay, 60% PN. A softer biscuity and leesy autolysis. Light red fruits with a strawberry lead then red apple skin and some cherry ideas. Crisp and dry, lengthy and salivating. Bold acid line and length. 93 Points

Both wines above are about 8 dosage level, specific yeast developed for the brand.

Jackson Family Wines KL Res Chardonnay: 47% French, 4% New, under screwcap. Classic bouquet of creaminess and vanilla, peaches and cream. Weighty and fresh, fine fruit tnnins and a leesy baked goods seam. Well made and drinking well now. 90 Points

Red - Light red wine, 4 grapes blend, served chilled. Flavours of red tea and red berries, cherry and strawberry some yellow plum and red floral. Fresh and lively, dry and crisp. Well made with plenty of acidity and fine fruit tannins. 90 points.

St Supery 2024 Est Sauvignon Blanc. Classic bouquet of citrus and limer-flower, mineral and a touch saline, gooseberry and apple, crisp and fresh and dry. Well made with length and persistance. 90 Points

2023 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon - 85-90% then CF, Mer, Malbec, PV. 30% new French. Warm and generous, fruity and full-bodied, fresh and dry, firm tannins and medium++ acid line. Delicious and weighty, a food wine for sure, chocolate box and dark red berry fruits, Smoke notes and firm tannins, plenty of acidity. Lots of dark spices and cinnamon. Youthful and will age well. VG 93 Points.

Benzinger: “Proud of our use of animals, cows and sheep”.

'Spirit and Earth Chardonnay' '24: Aromas and flavours of peaches and quince, grapefruit and white spices. The barrel work is precise and specific with a gentle sweetness and soft smoky quality. Nice weight and creaminess, lengthy and complexity. Dry with a seam of leesy oak and fruits qualities that harmonise the wine in the palate. Well made and with a hint of reduction VG. 93 Points.

‘Tribute’ Cabernet Sauvignon, CF Mer Malbec PV Red. 2 years ageing in Taransaud barrels. Open top ferments, pressed to barrel. Bold and ripe, a classic BX bouquet of blackberry and olive, black cherry and chocolate, barrel spices and sweet smoke, earthy and inviting. Youthful scents. Big, ripe and taut on the palate, salivating acidity and bold tannins. Youthful and very ripe, dry and lengthy. Tannins have a light dusty chalky edge. 93 Points VVG

Trefethen Family Vineyards Have grown Riesling since 1974 2023 vintage, about to roll to 2024. Limeflower and white apricot, lemon and some peach. Taut, high acid, will last for years to come. 92 Points

Have grown Cabernet Sauvignon since 1974: CS91 %, 9 % PV. Ripe and bold, some herbaceous notes and bell-pepper, ripe and fresh, lively and floral, violets and plums. Dry, firm, a decent measure of oak and wood spices. Delicious with polish tannins and backbone of acidity. Dark berries, lots of chocolate and earthy baked clay qualities. Well made, taut and needs time. 93 Points. VG.

Final visit Day 2

Da Vero wines - Dinner and wine tasting

Climate-smart Varietals and Carbon Sequestration

Hosts

Ridgely Evers, Founder & Owner
Colleen McGlynn, Founder & Owner

Upon arrival: Sparkling Frizzante wine 50% Moscato 50% Sangiovese

Property Tour including meeting the resident Kunekune pigs, then wine tasting with dinner (thank goodness no pork at dinner!)

Soup match: Avivo white wine from Vermentino: Bright, fresh, crisp, dry, plush mouthfeel with citrus and pear that appears with the soup. Delicious with food, a lovely wine without. 90 Points

Avivo Rose made with Sangiovese '24: A lovely wine, crisp and dry, a fine red fruits flavour profile of strawberry and red apple skin. A touch of salinity and lots of freshness, repeating red berry flavours, a whisper of lees. It was suggested a 'fruitloops' aromatic and flavour.

Served with Wild Mushroom Risotto - solid, not as good as mine.

Avivo Red 2022, Sangiovese: Varietal then fruity and varietal together (5% Syrah), Cherry and raspberry, clay and sweet herb spices. Dry, taut, polished tannins, med++ acidity. Not so much a wine of complexity as it is honesty and impact. Texture, fruity, repeat. Well made .

California Wine Resilience Napa Sonoma and Anderson Valley