The Central Otago Dozen - Review

I received the 12 pack of Pinots Noir in late 2025. Deciding to let the wine to settle from the short journey north, though more importantly discuss the 2023 vintage through the lens of each of these wine now that many of the 2024 wine are beginning to show in the market as well. Ultimately a good idea.

This offers you, the taster and reader an opportunity to consider and contemplate the 2023 vintage now that some bottle age begins to reflect the vintage conditions more acutely.

The truth is vintage conditions in 2023 Aotearoa New Zealand were challenged mostly in the north island and somewhat in the south. The further south vineyards were positioned the impacts of cyclone Gabrielle became less [impactful], though not entirely immune.

I have tasted and enjoyed some incredible wine from the Otago region - north and central - from the 2023 vintage, these 12 wines are an exacting reflection of sites and vintage.

C.

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Felton Road Block 5 Pinot Noir 2023 - A deep core of red and ruby with a lighter more pink-ish rim. Tasted over two days, day 2 reveals a wine bouquet that is complex and savoury, ripe fruit core of dark cherry and black raspberry scents, layers of tilled soil and earth-smoke scents of some mushroom and a whisper of truffle then dried clay. Some of the wild berries and floral qualities I normally find in this expression are a little quieter and present more definitely as the wine opens out in glass. Dry and still taut with poise moments lead by the tannins and acid line framing some of the rugged Otago hillside ideas and red berry fruits at the core. Complex and lengthy with best drinking from 2029 through 2035+. 95 Points - Outstanding

Moko Hills Pinot Noir 2023, Bendigo - A ruby core with a light ruby and purple rim. Aromas of fresh red berries led by raspberry and boysenberry, then scents of red tea and roses, layers of baking spice and crumbled stony soils ideas. The scent of oak is moderately intense with a new wood sweetness and natural tie to the varietal core of Pinot Noir. A dry, fruit, textured and enticing wine touches the palate, textures from polished tannins and backbone of acidity followed by a satin mouthfeel where the fruits flavours launch. Fleshy, dry and well made with plenty of length and complexity. Best drinking from day of purchase through 2034+.94 Points - Excellent.

Brennan Pinot Noir 2023, Gibbston - A highly polished core of ruby and red hues with a ruby rim leads to a bouquet of wild red flowers and boysenberry, a dried raspberry and dark red cherry quality. The French oak layers in with a smoky baking spice and cinnamon sweetness I find very enticing. Youthful and complex. On the palate an intense wine with warming alcohol and equal rush of varietal fruit flavours that reflect the bouquet. Polished tannins and decent acid line with lots of mouthfeel and finesse, red berries and compote qualities.. A lovely example with drive and power, warmth and generosity. A food wine with best drinking from day of purchase through 2031+. 93 Points - Excellent

Peregrine Pinot Noir 2023, Bendigo Estate and Pisa Vineyards - A very bright ruby and purple core with a light purple rim and lost of polish leads to a bouquet of boysenberry and dark red berry fruits bouquet. Dark cherry ad some dried raspberry suggestions then layers of French oak smoke and spice and s clay mineral qualities adding complexity and depth. A wine of texture and mouthfeel from tannins and acidity then breadth and youthful energy from the acidity and core fruits flavours. Layers of polished firm tannins and accentuated by the acid line framing ripe red berry fruit flavours laced with oak and mineral then leesy qualities. Salivating and intense, fruity and fine with a youthful urge and push from tannins and wood. Best drinking from late 2027 through 2034+. 94 Points- Excellent

Akarua Pinot Noir 2023, Bannockburn - Red and ruby hues with a faint purple hue most noticed at the rim. Ripe darker skinned cherry scents with raspberry and red apple then scents of new barrel with seam smoky tones. A fruity and dry wine on the palate with a fine tannins grip accentuated by the acid line revealing ideas of stony soils and dried herb hillside savoury qualities. Still youthful and loaded with charm with best drinking from late 2027 through 2035. 93 Points - Excellent

Amisfield ‘Breakneck’ Pinot Noir 2023, Pisa - Red and ruby with a magenta red hue with a very light purple hue at the rim. A complex bouquet of ripe red berry, plum and raspberry, boysenberry the clay and mineral, oak, deeply complex and very enticing. Some dried herb then wood scents, wild flowers then layers of baking spices. As the wine becomes more ambient and opens out in glass the power of scents becomes more appealing. Dry and delicious, salivating and textures with core flavours reflecting the bouquet with more intense layers of mineral and floral layers. Fine tannins, medium+ acid line, youthful and poised, well made and lengthy with best drinking from mid to late 2027 through 2036+. 95 Points - Outstanding

Monte Christo Pinot Noir 2023, Pisa and Bannockburn - Hues of ruby and red with faded rim suggesting purple and red. Aromas of complexity leading to a varietal core of dark berries and dried raspberry then an earthy quality with some fine barrel spice highlights then plum. Taut, dry and savoury with dried herb then fruits touching the palate first. Flavours of dark plum and raspberry are persistent and intense with a back bone of acidity and fine spice payers from oak and associated tannins. An excellent structure, mouthfeel and finish, a wine best cellared with best drinking from 2028 through 2038. 95 Points - Outstanding

Quartz Reef Pinot Noir 2023, Bendigo - Delicious and even better than when I tasted this wine back in October 2025. A varietal core with highlights of site, complexity and intrigue. Aromas and flavours of ripe red berry fruits, boysenberry and dried raspberry, spice and dried herb, a savoury complexity, fresh dried cherry, red plum and bracken. An abundance of polished tannins and backbone of acidity hold the wine in a poised state framing the fruit and savoury qualities. The QR wines always show a seam of soil mineral or site flavours, this wine reflects that idea also. Well made, youthful and lengthy with best drinking from late 2026 through 2035+. 95 Points - Outstanding

Grasshopper Rock Pinot Noir 2023, Earnscleugh - Hues of red and darker red with a ruby rim lead to a bouquet of ripe red berries and soft dried herb suggestions, layers of French oak with a gentle smoky quality then ideas of clay and mineral earth. On the palate a delicious and complete wine with a softness to the initial impact the a drive from acidity and abundance of fine tannins. Fruit flavours mirror the bouquet and sit nicely mid-palate. A wine of youthful and completeness, varietal flavours and lengthy finish. Well made with best drinking from late 2026 through 2034+. 94 Points - Excellent

Pyramid Valley ‘Snakes’ Tooth’ Pinot Noir 2023, Central Otago - From the PV Botanicals Collection this wine presents a bouquet of earth and ripeness, purity of fruit and layers of soils smoke with a fine powdered raspberry and stones. Scents of wood and wood-smoke suggest some new barrel percentage, though this is a bouquet and palate of fineness and charm, layers of fruit and lees, some smoke and lots of charm. Well made, balanced and ready to drink from day of purchase through 2034. 94 Points - Excellent

Burn Cottage ‘Burn Cottage Vineyard’ Pinot Noir 2023, Central Otago - Dark red with hues of ruby and purple at the rim lead to a bouquet of complexity and depth, ripe red berry fruits and clay mineral seams then wild roses and forest flowers. Scents of wood smoke and baking spice layers add complexity, depth and allure. A delicious wine on the palate with a fine polished tannins mouthfeel accentuated by the acid line, also adding length. As the opens out on the palate the flavours become more acute and detailed. Oak is well placed and judicious in approach. A lengthy delicious wine with best drinking from early 2027 through 2034+. 95 Points - Outstanding.

Rippon ‘Mature Vine Pinot Noir 2023, Lake Wanaka - Darker reds and ruby hues with polish, brightness and a ruby rim. Complex and dense, layered and bright, fruity and detailed with layers of soil and fragrant dried herbs, dark plum and raspberry, heirloom red apple skin and layers of mineral clay and soils ideas. A complex wine with textures from fine chalky tannins and a robust seam of acidity, dried herb and spice. Well made, a lovely mouthfeel and finesse, length and complexity. Well made, long finish and delicious/. Best from 2027 through 2035. 95 Points - Outstanding

I am more than happy and delighted to recommend all of the CO Dozen 2023 presented