Barolo tasting led by Master of Wine David Gleeve
About David Gleeve MW
David became an MW in 1986 - From the Institute of Masters of Wine website. David is an importer of wines from Italy, Australia, America and New Zealand with a particular emphasis on Italy. One of the UK's leading specialists of Italian wines, though this is largely by default. Has also written extensively on the subject, though less now than five to ten years ago.
Read more about David here, from an interview with Tim Atkin.
David was in NZ briefly to continue his research as an MW, and while here joined a group of fellow wine writers, including myself, to see the new vineyard Te Manawa owned by Sophie Parker-Thomson and Matt Thomson - Blank Canvas. David also brough a copy of his new book ‘Barolo and Barbaresco, the primacy of the vine. This is a new release, you can order a copy through this link.
Sophie and Matt had some Barolo wines they opened for the tasting and David walked us through previewed these by walking us through his impressions and some history of Barolo and Barbaresco as we tasted.
Thank you, Sophie, Matt and David.
My tasting notes below
Barolo Tasting with David Gleeve, wines by Sophie and Matt's Cellar.
6 Wines
2022s. Hot, dry year.
Barolo 2200 Ha
Western ridge - younger soils – older soils
Central Ridge - Serralunga combines parts of the east and west
Eastern ridge - the glory producers
Quietly floral and very intriguing with a seductive complexity of rose-perfume and fine clay soil tones, a deep earthy seam penetrates the senses. Complex. Very dry and immediately palate engaging, flavours of porcini then red fruits. Lees and barrel ideas fold into the bouquet and palate seamlessly. An immediately intense on the palate. A wine of length, quiet complexity and long engaging finish.
Two: Some tca moments - there's still some perfume and power. Sweet roses and a touch of tar (road kill). Dry, taut and chalky. Flavours are quietly infiltrating the textures. Chalky, dry, high acid, lengthy finish. Delightful though some scalping from the cork.
Three: Wonderful and classic perfume of soil and rustic sense of place ideas. A delicious wine, very dry yet salivating releasing flavours of red cherries and tart plums, some layers of older larger barrels, fine through moderate chalky tannins have chalk and grab in abundance. High acid line and lengthy delicious finish. Roses and plum, a touch of sand and clay.
Four: Darker and richer bouquet of soils of sandy clay, darker roses and masculine - like shoulders, a more exuberant frame through which the denser almost richer fruit ideas. Deliciously firm and dry to very dry. Tartness and strength, power and determined tannins, fruit and acidity. Feels young yet ripeness and personality deliver this wines voice.
Five: A powerful bouquet of roses and blood, iron and sweet red berries, very leesy and oaky with a natural sweetness. Sweet roses and raspberry, a fine bracken dried herb and sandy-like clay soil suggestions. Meaty and fleshy ideas. Dry+, higher tannins and higher acid line. I love it, perhaps because it is somewhat obvious. Delicious. Clay pot moments. Lengthy.
Six: Highly perfumed, (B?). Roses and fresh meat, clay sand soils, tart cherries and a strawberry quality. Dry, firm then releases, chalky fine tannins come in waves. Intense yet elegant. Long and textured. (Rinse) and repeat.
What a great tasting - thank you.
Barolo tasted at this session