Hawkes Bay 2024 vintage Chardonnay Challenge (2025)

My judging notes for the 2024 vintage Chardonnay from the 2025 Hawkes Bay Chardonnay Selection - below.

I have deliberately left out scores.

Where producers supplied RRP$ I have added these in.

After the final results were known we were sent via email the names of the producers tasted so we could marry up the wine to the tasting note.

Judging wine is a fascinating task, the attention to detail a wine maker puts into each vintage represents hard work, no doubt plenty of toil and does not go unnoticed.

On the day of judging, the wines are presented in groups of 10 (+/-), nosed and tasted, retasted, some are top-ups, some are repour(s). If a wine doesn’t seem quite right a new glass and new pour is requested (very little of this happened for the 2024s).

Hawkes Bay producers delivered some outstanding wine. I cannot thank them enough for sending through their hard work for judging.

Like previous assessments of Chardonnay from the region I wish I could have selected a top 18 and in some years a top 24.

A big thank you to my fellow senior judge - Emma Jenkins MW (rock star) and associate judge Thalia Osborne

 

Haha Wine Company. Taut and dry, a fairly simple expression on the nose with stone fruits and citrus peel. Plenty of texture and mouthfeel. Medium+ weight, balanced and well made with medium length and complexity. $18.99

 

Mission Estate Winery. No mistaking the fruit in the bouquet with a melon, almost tropical scent, then lees and some nut-butter ideas. Nice and dry with a decent weight and youthful tautness. Phenolics and fruit tannins add mouthfeel, then fruit leans into citrus and then stone fruit. Nice purity and length with medium+ complexity. Well made. $16.99

 

Unison. Youthful and quite high energy with  core aromas of oak and smoke-barrel spices, even a smoky butterscotch idea. Toasty stone fruits of peach and nectarine then some citrus. Fuller-bodied, taut and youthful, plenty of tannins and spice/phenolics, medium+ acid line with a youthful squeeze. Moderate mineral, medium+ length.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Trinity Hill. Classic expression with a bold statement of stone fruits and oak, some barrel spice and spice layers well placed. Full-bodied, dry, lovely texture and length. Layers of citrus emerge with a gentle flint quality. Medium+ acid line. Well made. $25.00

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

Mission Estate Winery. Nice purity of fruit with a fine lees and natural ferment quality. Aromas and flavours of citrus then stone fruits, mineral and stony earthy qualities. Fairly taut with phenolics and tannins delivering lots of mouthfeel and structure. Fruit follows. Medium+ weight and length, generous. Perhaps needs time, a little unresolved. RRP form $19.99                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Kokako Farms. Lovely big bouquet with lots of nut and oak, some smoke and toasty roasted nut qualities. Fruits suggest ripe and roasted peach and nectarine, apple and citrus. Powerful, big and dry with decent phenolics and acidity. What it lacks in finesse it makes up for power, energy and style. Well made, lengthy finish. $25.00

 

Zaria. Nice fruit purity and freshness with grapefruit and quince then apple and peach. Taut and with plenty of energy, fine tannins and decent acid line. Medium length, well-made overall with a simple finish. Acid seems a touch high still.                                                                                                                                           

Swift Wines Ltd . Floral, lees, fruit, texture and an immediate complexity with tension from acidity, some spice and layers of fruit not needing so much oak. Great mouthfeel and poise, tension and intrigue. A wine to watch. $38.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Craggy Range. Peach and roasted apple then citrus and spiced wood and nut. Medium+ weight, a lovely acid line with citrus then white fleshed stone fruit flavours, some lees and youthful energy with freshness. Perhaps a little lean on the finish with abv noted, that said it’s delicious. $32.95                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Helio Wines. Nice bouquet and intrigue with a burst of fruit energy then lees and layers of new wood. Fresh, bright, taut and youthful with white fleshed stone fruits and citrus peel, grapefruit and red apple. Dry, medium++ weight, satin and creamy custard note. Well made. $40.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Paritua. Full-bodied, no mistaking the oak content, a core stone fruits and citrus peel then distinctive phenolics and stony spice qualities. Quite taut and young with a youthful palate squeeze and creamy long finish. A wine to revisit in 6 months.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Askerne. Nice bouquet and power with core of apple and citrus then stone fruits. Lovely weight and tension with acidity and tannins framing the fruit well. Some poise and positive reduction leading to a lengthy finish. $26.90                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Clearview Estate. Nut and roasted stone fruits, ripe and developing quickly. Full-bodied and creamy with stone fruits and buttery textures. Good acid line with medium length. Sound and well made. Classic and tasty with style and immediate drinkability. $29.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Pyramid Valley. Excellent purity of fruit and style, nice energy, weight and texture. A wine with finesse, texture and balance. There's some gentle phenolics with some bitterness accentuating the tannins and acid effect, but overall VG fruit and style. $40.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Alchemy. Great bouquet of fruit and baked fruits and custard, apple, citrus and peach. Some gentle flinty qualities, decent acid line and length, long finish with purity of fruit captured, full of texture and finesse. $36.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Selaks. A challenging wine to taste today, the phenolics don't seem aligned so well. Some bitterness and hard ness. That said the fruit flavours are good with apple and stone fruits then leesy warmth. $39.99                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Čuvar. A slightly bruised apple smell, leading to some oxidation and advancement, I wonder if the closure was compromised. Nice creamy textured palate with warming alcohol and spice from wood. Overall sound, dry and moderate in length. I am confident another bottle with show the wine in a different light. $29.99                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Mission Estate Winery. Rich bouquet with some slightly advanced fruit flavours, tending towards bruised apple. Nice weight and texture with fine tannins and medium+ acid line. Weighty and bold, moderate in length, medium+-ish acid line. $24.99                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    

Squawking Magpie. Such a lovely wine with a taut new and modern bouquet, lots of florals and fine  lees work, fresh white peach and apple flavours, some fine lees and new oak use, both absorbed easily by the fruit. Vibrant and still developing, VG length and intensity. $24.95                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Elephant Hill. A nice bouquet and initial palate touch, there's some new bold textures and power from the use of new barrel and time spent in. A wine that has all the attributes for ageing, it's just not ready yet. Acidity has a lot of bite and accentuates the oak and phenolics. Has potential. $65.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Askerne. Lovely bouquet, dusty phenolics, citrus and lemon pith, fine fruit tannins with a precise flow and finish. Lovely acid line and length, purity of fruit and intrigue. $36.90

 

Ash Ridge. A little distracting with the bouquet because of the sensory impact of oak. A big wine with oak sweetness in the driver's seat. Weighty, nutty and creamy, a definitive wine that will please many. The oak masks the fruit a bit too much. $36.00

 

Craggy Range. Slightly closed nose with a bouquet of citrus and lees then as the wine opens out on the palate the flavours of oak and spice begin to layer in texture, flavour and some finesse. An intriguing example with a natural flow and style, perhaps just a bit shy on complexity and length. A wine I expect to enjoy even more once settled fully. $44.95



 

Clearview Estate. An expressive bouquet with direct hits from fruit then oak then texture. Flavours of peach and apricot, apples and citrus layers. Full-bodied and rich in texture, many crowd-pleasing qualities as well as a lovely mouthfeel and length. $49.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Chateau Garage. A nut rich,  distinctive and developing bouquet with a full leesy textured palate. Flavours of apples and citrus then a finer lees and earth spice quality. Lighter weighted than I was expecting, this highlights the mineral and delicate side of this example. Overall well made, interesting and new. Shorter finish. $49.00

 

Kokako Farms. Youthful, new, rich in creamy texture and core fruit flavours. Nectarine and red apple framed by a silky acid line. Some warmth from alcohol, phenolics and spice layers all add to the final taste. Not seamless yet textured and somehow ready. $50.00

 

Bilancia. A slightly bitter note to the bouquet with a pith then apple then stone fruits suggestions. Firm, dry, nice acid line with some juicy fruit moments. The phenolics and finish seem a bit short driven by the extract and some greenness or hardness of the tannins/fruit. This is a young and vibrant wine, Just needs a little more time to settle and integrate. $55.00

 

Squawking Magpie. A balanced, even, safe and steady bouquet with a satin-cream texture and fruit flavours of apple and peach, cream and a touch of cheesiness. I like the chablis aspect with a mineral stony layer enhanced by the phenolics and core fruit flavours, some floral  moments too. Is that a caraway seed or dried herb note - not sure [today]. $33.95                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Tony Bish Wines. Youthful, ripe bouquet with lots of citrus and urgency. Taut, young, acidity and palate squeeze. A little leaner than expected on the palate. Citrus and apple fruits, some leesy finesse. Overall sound, just a little short. $39.95                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Collaboration. No mistaking the use of winemaking here with the intervention of wood and lees effect - done well though. Aromas and flavours of peaches and apples, lots of texture and creaminess, power and mouthfeel. Delicious, fresh and dry with bold effect, muscle and length. Lees and oak seem to melt into the fruit and style.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Decibel. Oak smoke and mineral with flavours of pear and citrus, a whisp of pith then apple and white stone fruits. A fine leesy quality with a richness of fruit and texture. Balanced, well-made and ready to drink, fine tannins and phenolics. $44.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Bilancia. A dirty glass was changed then, as this swirls the scents and flavours begin to develop with apples and citrus. Oak might be too much or at an integration stage that is in an awkward stage. After tasting several times, I have decided this wine is too youthful and needs time. It tastes great, just not ready. $55.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Smith & Sheth. Nice bouquet, quite floral and finessed with ripe citrus and pomaceous fruits. Dry with a fine lees quality, lovely acid line and length, white peach and fine textures from tannins. Well made, a little lean but lovely overall. $40.00

 

Trinity Hill. Nice weight and intensity with a richness of nut and lees, oak then fruit. Big on the palate with tannins and mouthfeel enhanced by the abv. Dry, well-made and drinking well today. A bold [masculine] style with moderate length, needs time. $40.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Pask Winery. Quite a warm style with flavours of pears and apple then some fine creamy lees stone fruit suggestions. All in with the MLF, perhaps a whisper of RS. Lees and phenolics sound, a dry wine with an interesting palate and finish. $50.00

 

Bilancia. A dry wine with a tart extracted mouthfeel, the phenolics and acidity show how youthful this wine still is (give ot time). An interesting wine that changes a lot in glass, just seems a bit stretched for the level of dryness and youth. I like the citrus and tree fruit flavours, peel and lees qualities. $95.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Collaboration. Smoky and earth lees, a mix of ripe peach fruits then apple and bakes pomaceous fruit ideas. Nice satin cream mouthfeel and finish, lengthy, specific and well made, a wine that seems to reflect its vineyard origins and wine maker interpretations.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             

Chateau Garage Modern, ripe and fruity, varietal and textured. Dry with flavours of citrus then apple, lemon then leesy phenolics well placed. Taut and new, a wine with finesse and leanness, floral tones and intrigue, texture. $59.00

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Čuvar. A balanced and complete wine with flavours of stone fruits and citrus, some nice phenolics and oak layer. Decent texture, dry and well-made overall. $49.99                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Te Mata Estate. I like the oak, but there's quite a lot of it. It seems to enhance the warmth of the alcohol. Nice citrus/grapefruit flavours, fine fruit and wood tannins. Medium+ acid line. Quite a big wine and overall, well made, just too much wood on the finish. $49.95                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Linden Estate. Ripe ad with some warmth, citrus and some peel, even a touch of pith. Dry and fresh, quite new still wine fine tannins and medium+ acid line. Some tautness and finesse form tannins then fruit. Well made, dry and with medium+ length. Perhaps lacks the complexity to follow through. $64.00

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Easthope.  Lots of swirling needed to breal out the concentration and power. Some bright lights with the fruit and fine tannins framed by a bright line of acidity. Orchard fruits, nutty oak. As the wine opens out in glass the wine develops layers and complexity, charm and style.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Elephant Hill. I like the satin-creaminess of this wine with a core fo fresh stone and pomaceous fruits, a complexity and charm, floral high lights and charming lengthy finish. Delicious, fresh and complete. $65.00

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

Smith & Sheth A creamy oakier style with flavours of peach and red apple, some cream and leesy, saline qualities. Full-bodied with a creamy mouthfeel, easy phenolics and balanced fruity finish. A wine to please many Chardonnay fans.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Ash Ridge. Big, broad and oaky with a mix of roasted nyt and peach, baked apple and citrus. Lots of lees and BF qualities, an impactful mouthfeel with moderate+ length and moderate complexity. $60.00

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Radburnd Cellars. Specific use of oak with this wine. Warmth with intense phenolics, lots of power and youthful drive. Firm tannins, medium+ acid line, this is a big wine that needs a lot of cellar time to curb the edges. A bold move. $85.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Black Barn Vineyards. Young and bright, fruity with apple and citrus, lees and judicious use of oak. Dry with medium+ weight and satin-cream mouthfeel. Medium+ acid line and length, balanced, well made with medium length. $48.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Clearview Estate. A big bold and delicious wine, lots of spice and intensity. Lovely weight and concentration, texture and finesse. $75.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Elephant Hill. Lots of new oak and weight, abv noted with a butterscotch and roasted peach core. Some saline effect, tautness and high energy mouthfeel. Well made, medium+ length. A wine that just needs to settle. $95.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Tony Bish Wines. Bright, fresh and fruity with a core of citrus and stone fruits, some toasty layers from wood and smoke then a pith note and gentle saline effect. Fine tannins bring texture and contrast, acidity brings a lovely freshness. $79.95                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Alpha Domus. A lovely generous wine with impacts from lees and oak, then nut. Lovely weight and intensity, spice and core of fruit. Moments of plushness and complexity, Delicious, fresh and dry with medium+ weight and creaminess. Well made.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            

Smith & Sheth. Peaches and baked apples, then citrus , some lees and spice layers. Medium+ weight with a satin cream texture. Well made, s little simple yet balanced, fresh and ready. $69.95

 

Tony Bish Wines. Fresh, dry, fruity, warm, oak then spice. Fine tannins and balanced phenolics. Citrus then peach. Overall a well made wine with medium length and nutty style. $69.95                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Trinity Hill. A very nice wine with flavours of mandarin and other citrus then peach and a layer of oak spice. Fine lees and a touch of pith. Easy tannins and acid line. A nicely made wine with balance, readiness and charm. $80.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Craggy Range Citrus, grapefruit, apple and some white peach. Dry, taut, youthful and gently saline. Some pith and peach then fine fruit tannins. A lower oak expression with just a little greennees, huge complexity and power, and cheesy ideas that distract. Overall outstanding. $160.00                                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Villa Maria. A lovely wine with weight and texture, a core of apple and other pomaceous fruits. Fresh and dry with medium+ acid line, some mineral and spice layers. Balanced, well-made and lengthy. A wine to savour and just drink. $90.00