Pinot Pioneers and a Wairarapa Wine Showcase - 39 wines tasted and reviewed
In early August I joined fellow wine and beverage writers Bob Campbell, Yvonne Lorkin and Jonathan Brookes for a two day look around the Martinborough wine sub-region.
We were there for two key reasons, the first being to look around the new tasting rooms at Nga Waka, Ata Rangi and Te Kairanga.
We had a delicious lunch at Poppies, a fabulous cuppa and muffin at Big Sky wines and a fabulous dinner at the Martinborough hotel recognising Pinot Pioneers - Neill and Dawn McCallum, Clive Paton and Phyll Pattie, Larry and Sue McKenna and Derek Milne (DSIr Soil Scientist).
Fabulous menu and wines for the dinner were excellent
Katherine Jacobs, Clive Paton and Phyll Pattie
Preceding the dinner I attended a blind tasting of 39 wines (notes below).
Many of these wines I had tasted previously - it was great to be able to do so again in a randomised fashion.
See some trip images at the end
Cameron.
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2021 Luna Eclipse Pinot Noir RRP $47.99
Ripe with equal dark berries and oak bouquet, a mix of baking spices and plums, clove and vanilla, some toasty barrel layers. Taut and youthful, chalk and some sandpaper mouthfeel, Med+ acid line, well made, med+ length. VG 93 Points
2019 The Elder Pinot Noir RRP $66.99
Floral and fruity, taut and dry, a youthful grip on the palate, contrasting raspberry and plum flesh fruits. Firmish tannins and plenty of acidity, stony soils, clay and a newness that is slightly clumsy, will settle. Well made, dry and overall very good. 93 Points
2021 Te Tera Pinot Noir RRP $28.99
Great colour and bouquet, youthful and intense, aromas and flavours of fresh boysenberry and plum then cherry and spice, some moments of strawberry then moments of barrel and some five spice and floral charms. Dry and new, some tautness and plenty of youthful energy. Well made, dry, new and lengthy. 93 Points
2022 Cambridge Road Wilde One Pinot Noir RRP $44.99
Some integration apparent with a mushroom and mineral quality, that said there's some new barrel scents and baking spice layers. The wine dances across the palate, there's a youthful spritz or whole berry quality. Youthful chalky tannins and med+ acid line. Plush, ripe and new. 92 Points
2019 Hamden Estate Pinot Noir RRP $32
Mineral and soil driven bouquet with aromas and flavours of stones and clay, dark plums and black cherry. There are moments of preserved maraschino then barrel spice. Quite taut and youthful with acidity and tannins setting a grippy structure. There's a touch of leanness mid palate, overall VG with a youthful crunch. A wine that needs time to settle and integrate, overall sound and new. 91 Points
2021 Matahiwi Holly Pinot Noir RRP $29.99
Dark berries and core of barrel spices and black currant, persistent on the nose and palate. Firm tannins, a lush core of fruits with a lengthy, intriguing and complex finish. Delicious 94 Points
2020 B Wine Lime Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir RRP $63.99
Aromas of more mature vines and concentration with dark berries and baking toastiness from soil and oak. Tannins have a lovely velvet texture, acidity adds tautness and power. Lengthy and well made. Has pinosity and style. 94 Points
2020 On Giant’s Shoulders Pinot Noir RRP $47.99
A bouquet of pinosity and power, a sense of place and time with dark berries and dried strawberries. Barrel and toasty oak sweetness layer in evenly and with intensity. Ripe and balanced, youthful and concentrated. Well made, and rather delicious. 94 Points
2022 Cambridge Road Stargazer Pinot Noir RRP $40
Floral and ripe with pinosity and maturity, barrel spices and flavours are noticeable and intentional. Fruits of cherries and red plums, some red apple skin then lighter clay soil suggestions. Tannins and needle point impact and acidity is the backbone. A wine I think will age well. But I do notice the oak somewhat more than perhaps needed. 93 Points
2020 Kusuda Martinborough Pinot Noir RRP $125
A bouquet of concentration and power, pinosity and charm, floral and new. Ripe core of fruits from plums and cherries to raspberries then darker barrel spice moments. Plush and ripe, fleshy and complex. Well made with great length. 95 Points
2021 Craggy Range Te Muna Pinot Noir RRP $44.99
Dark roses and flowers, stones and clay soil, subtle barrel spice moments and core red fruits lead the bouquet. Juicy, fleshy, ripe and delicious, a wine with impact and power, freshness and pinosity. Youthful firm moments as the wine touches the palate, flavours mirror the nose + plums then French barrel spice suggestions. Tannins have finesse and charm, acidity well placed. Dry and lengthy. 94 Points
2021 Schubert Block B Pinot Noir RRP $83.99
Distinctive aromatics and palate with an abundance of new barrel scents and flavours. Fruits of dark cherry and some quiet savoury moments blend with barrel sweetness and power. Firm and dry, balanced, new with vibrant length. 93 Points
2021 Escarpment Kiwa Pinot Noir RRP $86.99
A slight unfiltered look. A mix of ripeness and savoury brown spice aromas and flavours. Dark spices plums and savoury cherry mix, a wine of place and wine making. Firm and dry, layers of dark berries set the stage for some firm tannins and youthful power. Well made and dry with plenty of acidity and freshness too. 93 Points
2020 Blue Earth Pinot Noir RRP $69
A complete wine on the nose and palate with a mix of fresh red berries and smoky oak sweet spices. Firm, dry and very new on the palate, flavours of dark plums and baked cherries, the oak does power through these somewhat. A delicious wine that needs cellar time to integrate and harmonise what the bouquet suggests. 94 Points
2019 Blue Earth Pinot Noir RRP $69
A lovely example, ripe, fruity, some integration and mild development, yet delicious. Dry, fresh, has pinosity and a Wairarapa voice of dark strawberry and cherry fruits then textures and mouthfeel with bright firm tannins and lots of acidity. 93 Points
2021 Luna Blue Rock Pinot Noir RRP $47.99
Plush and ripe with a youthful core of ripe red berry fruits, red apple skin and cherry flesh then roses and spice. The palate reflects the bouquet with fruits and subtle spice layers. This is a youthful and refreshing style with immediate drinking and some caller time if needed. Well made, dry and fine. 92 Points
2021 Escarpment Te Rehua Pinot Noir RRP $86.99
A lovely bouquet of variety and pinosity, aromas and flavours of red berries and barrel spices, fruit and barrel sweetness, youthful and freshness. Tannins are fine and chalky, acidity medium+ adding a newness and crispness. Well made and youthful, a drink now or cellar style, well made, dry. Solid. 93 Points
2020 Grava Martinborough Pinot Noir RRP $47.50
Ripeness of fruits are mirrored by the power of barrel, smoke and baking spice layers. There's dried herb quality to the bouquet. Firm and dry, youthful and taut, tannins and acidity work together to set a sound foundation for the fruit. Well made, lengthy and dry with a core of fruit. A wine that needs space and time to mature. 94 Points
2022 Luna Estate Pinot Noir RRP $24.99
A lovely bouquet of charm and elegance, there's a sweetness to the fruit and oak as it touches the palate. The wine is a touch lighter than expected. Bright, fresh, fruity and ready. 91 Points
2021 B Wine Martinborough Pinot Noir RRP $45
Smoky toasty barrel beginning, bold and expressive, savoury and equally fruity, there's barrel spices and soil smoke then aromas of dark plums and dark cherry skin. Dry, firm, taut, fruit flavours mirror the bouquet, tannins have a youthful firm quality and acidity keeps the palate fresh and adds length and texture. Delicious wine, well made, dry and will mature well. 94 Points
2020 Big Sky Celestia Te Muna Road Pinot Noir RRP $108.99
Classic bouquet with a core of pinosity with old strawberries and cherry flesh mixed with stone dry clay soils and wood spice lift. Taut and youthful, there's an evenness to the flavours and textures, yet also taut and youthful. A wine that should be allowed to mature and unfurl over time. Tannins and grip, but not too much, acidity has power, but not too much. A lovely wine. 94 Points
2019 Poppies Pinot Noir RRP $65
The power of ripe fruit and impact of new wood seems apparent with the bouquet. On the palate, juicy and fleshy, plenty of tannins and acidity add a playful quality. Some abundance of tannins and fleshy ripe and darker skinned fruit flavours at the core, then brown soil and oak and smoke flavours. Overall Solid, needs some time. 93 Points
2022 Te Kairanga Runholder Pinot Noir RRP $35.99
Vine maturity and complexity, seductive power and pinosity charm. A complete wine on the nose and palate with a core of ripe perfumed fruits then barrel spices and youthful vintage charms. Plush, ripe and delicious, tannins have presence but not too much, acidity is strong and keeps the flavours delivered across the palate. Lengthy, dry and delicious. 95 Points
2020 Huntress Martinborough Pinot Noir RRP $51.99
A powerful bouquet of ripe red berry fruits laced with new barrel and dark spices of oak and soil. Firm and dry, flavours of dark plums and black cherry skin, some tea and wood smoke, savoury forest herbs, freshness and dryness, length and complexity. No mistaking the tannins and youthful acid line. 94 Points
2020 Te Kairanga John Martin Pinot Noir RRP $42.50
Dark soils, plenty of barrel interactions then a core of red berried fruits greet the bouquet. There's power and pinosity, some seductive floral moments and wild dried herb qualities. Dry as the wine touches the palate then sweetness from barrel and ripe red berry fruit flavours. Firmish tannins are ripe and abundant. Acidity adds texture and freshness. A big wine for PN. 92 Points
2019 Martinborough Home Block Pinot Noir RRP $66.99
A touch of oxidation noted within the bouquet, so there’s a sense of maturity with aromas of mushroom and spice, some sweetness of barrel then savoury reductive notes. Overall sound and well made, needs some time to show all it has to offer. Firmish tannins and acidity keep the wine refreshed and textured. 92 Points
2021 Urlar Gladstone Pinot Noir RRP $43.99
A touch of alcohol lift starts the bouquet then ripe dark red berry fruit flavours chime in, there’s some floral layers and new wood influences. Overall, well made with med+ length and moderate complexity. A wine I suspect will blossom as it reaches 8-10 years in bottle. 92 Points
2021 Palliser Estate Hua Nui Vineyard Martinborough Pinot Noir RRP $110
Lovely bouquet, ripe and mature, has a sense of place and soil. Delicious on the palate with an evenness and urgency of youth, yet plush and ripe. There's a floral side to this wine that could be missed. Lengthy ripe, taut and salivating, a lovely example. 94 Points
2021 Schubert Marion’s Vineyard Wairarapa Pinot Noir RRP $69.99
A rather intense yet lovely bouquet. Aromas and flavours of ripe and preserved cherries, red apple skin and barrel spice layers. Tannins are abundant and not too firm, which I like, acidity adds freshness and charm, oak has some sweetness and mild toasty qualities. Balanced and well made, some mild savoury qualities, overall VG. 94 Points
2020 Te Kairanga Martinborough Pinot Noir RRP $49.99
Seductive fruity and complex, layers of fruit and soil, barrel work and wine making. Ther's a natural side to this wine with a fresh floral appeal and gentle spice complexity. Plush and ripe, lengthy and delicious. Tannins are fine and abundant, not overpowering, acidity is charming, adds freshness and purity to the fruit story. 94 Points
2021 Escarpment Pahi Martinborough Pinot Noir RRP $86.99
There's a mix of maturity and power in the bouquet, maturity from the complexity and power form the youthful energy in the fruit. This allows for more new barrel which delivers on complexity and depth as well as overall charm and elegance. Ripe, layered and fine with a lighter tannins structure, plenty of acidity then core fruit flavours. Well made, lengthy and seems almost ready. 93 Points
2021 Escarpment Kupe Martinborough Pinot Noir RRP $117.99
Dark berries and bold use of barrel, there's some smoky charms and darker brown soils complexities. Firm and dry, plenty of acidity and core fruit soil combinations. Tannins has are firmness that allows cellar time and acidity supports this. Dark plums and ripe raspberry add the contrast and boldness. Lengthy and well made. Dry. 93 Points
2021 Matahiwi Bruce Wairarapa Pinot Noir RRP $69.99
Complex, new, youthful and intense, aromas and flavours of dark plums and barrel spices, there's a core of dark fruits and smoky barrel, some layers of pinosity and charm, then power. Firm ripe and abundant tannins add texture and length. Dry and lengthy, acidity is crucial to the length and freshness. Well made overall. 93 Points
2021 Craggy Range Aroha Pinot Noir RRP $179.99
New, fresh and vibrant with plush ripe red berry fruits and dark boysenberry layers. Firm tannins and plenty of acid for structure and length. A wine that is still very youthful needing some development time to integrate and reveal its true complexity and sense of place. Well made and dry, firm and taut. 94 Points
2019 Margrain Vineyard Home Block Pinot Noir RRP $49
Pinosity and freshness, youthful and new. Aromas and flavours of dark plums and barrel spices, freshness form acidity and firm tannins. Well made, and lengthy, a lovely wine that needs time to integrate. There's a chalkiness to the tannins that suggest lengthy and maturity with the promise of decent fruit to back it up. 93 Points
2021 Nga Waka Pinot Noir RRP $38.99
A specific bouquet and palate that suggest producer style. Firm and dry, a complex package of flavours from preserved cherries to dark plums, and some defined barrel work. Firm tannins and acidity, Seems a bit warm with the alcohol quite noticeable today. 90 Points
2016 Margrain Vineyard Reserve Pinot Not RRP $70
Lovely fruit and oak then clay and stones, firm and dry, some lovely pinoisty and charm, red berries and barrel spices. Dusty chalky tannins, nice acid line, lengthy and well made. There’s complexity here. 93 Points
2014 Porters Reserve Pinot Noir RRP $75.00
A lovely bouquet with freshness and ripeness, a noticeable statement of oak and its sweetness, spices and complexity. A core of concentration and freshness, complexity and texture, Chalky tannins and acidity add texture and mouthfeel. Lengthy dry and delicious. 94 Points
2021 Nga Waka Lease Block Pinot Noir RRP $51.99
New, ripe, fresh and loaded with pinosity and power. Aromas and flavours of ripe dark plums and black berry fruits, some raspberry, blackcurrant, and cherry fruits. Taut and new, dry and lengthy. Well made, dry and delicious, A wine that needs cellar time and patience. 94 Points
