Jancis, Andrea and I arrived in the Wairarapa from Hawkes Bay in Steve’s Audi A7 in time for a local coffee (really good by the way) too early to check into the Martinborough hotel though, so we left our bags with the hotel and headed out for the tasting sessions - highlighted below.

Dinner that evening was with several winemakers and invited guests at Palliser Estate - delicious food and excellent wines.

Notes below are from the days tastings along with some images as they unfolded.

Cyclone Gabrielle was starting to threaten the schedule so we had a 4.30 am start for Wellington the next day to make a flight away from the north island to Christchurch then north again to Marlborough.

Fortunately the Kitchener’s Cafe in Martinborough opens super early!

Links to my fellow wine writers here: https://www.jancisrobinson.com/ https://www.wineintuition.com/ https://twitter.com/nickryanwine

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Session 1 Chardonnay Current Wine Vintage

Palliser Om Santi Chardonnay 2020
Positive reduction captures my attention first the aromas and flavours of creamed peach and quince, there’s also some orange/mandarin suggestion, quince and apple. Satin-cream, med+ acid, some newer oak and older barrel layers. Super fine tannins, a lovely mealy texture and chalk like moments. Lovely long finish. Delicious. 96 Points

Palliser Om Santi Chardonnay 2021
Quite a different expression with a cream and peach quality, focused and youthful, taut. Enticing flavours from yellow stone fruits with layers of newer barrel, medium+ toast. Great balance and dryness. Apple and peach, citrus and barrel spice. Taut, youthful, and lengthy. 95 Points

Martinborough Vineyards Home block Chardonnay 2021
Youthful, pure, fresh and bright, layers of apple and citrus, white peach and mild baking spices, lees and whispers of white smoke. Youthful and quite taut, balanced, and well-made with flavours that reflect the bouquet. 94 Points

Schubert Chardonnay 2022
Really lovely fruit with ripe citrus with grapefruit then apple, peach then barrel spice and newer oak, very taut and new, some bottle-shock still, needs some time. All the pieces for a wine to age well are in stock. 93 Points

Ata Rangi Masters 2021
Fantastic bouquet, pure, ripe, and new with white fleshed peach and apple, some lemon squeeze then gentle oak layers laced with lees spice and white flowers. Fine and pure on the palate, plenty of acidity and judicious use of oak, mouthfeel and length. 96 Points

Dry River Chardonnay 2021
Fantastic bouquet with layers of complexity from lees and fruit synergies, barrel choice and youthful energy. Lovely weight and intensity, there's a delicious oak wood flavour, some lees autolysis-type qualities. Silk textures and medium+ acid synergies. Plush, new and vibrant, another excellent example from Wilco and his team. 96 Points

Te Kairanga John Martin Chardonnay 2021
Complexity and spice, pure white fleshed fruit speak before yellow then barrel spice and gently sweeter oak flavours. Dry, taut, fine chalky mouthfeel, plenty of acidity, nice lemon squeeze and apple fruit flavours and a very light lees complexity. 95 Points

Te Kairanga John Martin Chardonnay 2020
Ripe, fresh, mineral, and pure. Aromas and flavours of yellow and white peaches, apple, and floral tones. Flavours on the palate reflect the bouquet, fine lees and a whisper of positive reduction, carefully selected oak and a fine chalky mouthfeel. 95 Points

Escarpment Chardonnay 2021
No mistaking the power and richness, ripe fruit and scents of oak and mineral clay. There's an unfurling of flowers and natural spice, stone fruits and quince. Fabulous mouthfeel and finesse, power, and impact. Delicious, saline, lovely reductive quality, fine wood spice layers, minerally intense and length. 96 Points

Session 2 Pinot Noir Current Wine Vintage

Palliser Hua Nui Pinot Noir 2019
Gently savoury bouquet, there's ripeness and some taut fruit scents. Some strawberry and cherry fruits, layers of wood spices and mineral stone qualities with a touch of clay. A youthful, squeeze with acidity and tannins - chalky, nice polish and impact. Dry, layered and fresh still with fruit flavours the same as the bouquet suggests. Well made, lighter weighted, but drinking nicely. 93 Points

Palliser Hua Nui Pinot Noir 2020
Feels like a regular vintage for Palliser, firm and ripe, varietal and fruity with scents of stones and mineral earth then wood and toasty barrel. Dry, taut, youthful and textured with firmish tannins and medium+ acidity. Plenty of tautness and youthful impact. Dry, lengthy, and complex. VG 94 Points

Martinborough Vineyards Pinot Noir Home block 2019
Myriad red berry fruit aromas, some moments of over-ripeness then scent of plums and dark cherries, baking spices and a light steely savoury quality, plenty of complexity and youth. Palate reflects the bouquet with a gentle tartness then ripeness of fruits, baking spice and vanilla spiced barrel features. Well made, lengthy and still developing. 93 Points

Martinborough Vineyards Home Block Pinot Noir 2020
Lift and complexity with a core of riper red berry fruits, mineral earth and baking spice layers from barrel. Delicious, ripe and fresh o the palate, softer tannin structure with a very fine polished mouthfeel with medium+ acid line. Dry, fruity and persistent on the palate with flavours that reflect the bouquet. VVG 95 Points

Schubert Marion’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020
Lovely power and impact with dark cherry and plum fruit scents then baking spices of wood from clove to vanilla. Taut, dry, young, long. Savoury and fruit synergies, plenty of acidity with a firm and precise mouthfeel. VG. 95 Points

Schubert Block B Pinot Noir 2020
Red apple skin scents alongside cherry and strawberry notes, higher impact on the palate with firmer tannins and bold acid line. Dry with a savoury side accentuating the barrel use. Youthful and taut. Dry and lengthy. Well made. 93 Points

Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2020
Ripe and distinctive, the signature of Martinborough is firmly in place with this wine's mineral and reddish stony clay scents. The savoury dried herb quality is also up front. Plums and strawberries, baking spices and layers of mixed coopers. Dry with firm, very polished tannins, medium+ acid lines presenting a taut youthful structure. Well made, dry, lengthy. 95 Points

Ata Rangi McCrone Vineyard Pinot Noir 2020
A youthful power in the bouquet with a windswept energy, firmness and power. Aromas of savoury plums and cherry fruits, judicious use of oak allows the fruit and variety to speak first, dry taut, youthful and with plenty of acidity, a long lived future ahead. Some chalky tannins and gentle saline quality. 94 Points

Ata Rangi Kotinga Pinot Noir 2020
Expressive bouquet with a sense of place first then aromas of darker plums and berries, some black currant moments then savoury spices from barrel, lees and wood smoke. Dry on the palate with a lovely almost chalky leesish mouthfeel, fruit flavours reflect the bouquet, there's a wonderful energy about this wine. Primary still, lengthy and complex. 95 Points

Ata Rangi Masters PInot Noir 2020
Complex, individual, a fine positive reductive quality accentuating soil and site, then ripe cherry, strawberry fruit and plum. Dry, very complex, a fine savoury quality, fabulous tannins and acid line. Complex, excellent mouthfeel, a mix of dried herb and ripe fruits, judicious oak program and long defined finish. 96 Points

Kusuda Pinot Noir 2020
Exquisite bouquet, ripe and very pure fruited. There's a wonderful smoky quality to the soil scents, the fruits are well defined, fresh and with no rough edges. Oak selection is specific. On the palate oak also layers in a quiet sweetness, then layers of baking spice ease in, an abundance of fine chalk dust tannins, plenty of acidity, dry, some savoury moments and a long finish. 96 Points

Dry River Pinot Noir 2019
Powerful bouquet, savoury and complex, aromas and flavours ripe dark red fruits plum and cherry, some black currant, flinty nut quality and layers of oak with baking spices. Delicious on the palate, an abundance of mealy polished and rounded tannins, acidity and core fruit flavours synergies with the tannins, the savoury quality is excellent. An excellent example. 96 Points

Dry River Estate Pinot Noir 2018
Mineral almost steely aroma with ripe red and black cherry suggestions, strawberry, and a savoury red earth quality. Dry, fruity, savoury, and developing. Flavours of fruits reflect the bouquet, plenty of acidity and firmish tannins, dark red berry fruit flavours, some plum then spices from barrel. Quite dry on the finish. 93 Points

Te Kairanga John Martin Pinot Noir 2021
Flinty, mineral, savoury and fresh, aromas and flavours of gently savoury cherry fruits, plum moments and barrels spice layers. New and ripe with a fine tautness, an abundance of fine tannins, well made, generous and drinking well. VG 94 Points

Te Kairanga John Martin Pinot Noir 2020
Lovely bouquet of fresh cherry and spice, there's a fine savoury quality on the palate with fine tannins and plum fruits then cherry and spice. Balanced and well made, will develop nicely, not overly complex, but a lovely drink all the same with pinosity at the core and mouthfeel that teases along the way. 93 Points

Escarpment Martinborough Pinot Noir 2020
Hallmarks of Escarpment and Martinborough in the bouquet, aromas and flavours of cherries and spices, savoury - from earth and barrel, lovely textures from tannins and acid line, taut, bright, fresh and vibrant. A lovely mouthfeel, chalky tannins and mineral earth finish. 20% new oak adds complexity and does not compromise the overall impact. VG 95 Points

Escarpment Kiwa Pinot Noir 2020
Vibrant bouquet with flowers and spice, lees and a nut note then fruits of cherry and strawberry, some mangosteen berry and plum. Delicious on the palate with a lovely savoury and tannins textured mouthfeel. Plenty of acid to add a crisp note and fruit flavours coat the palate well. VVG. 95+ Points

Escarpment Te Rehua Pinot Noir 2020
A little more muscle on the nose with a darker fruit profile, savoury dried herb notes and fine barrel spice complexity. Dry and savoury as the bouquet suggests, firm youthful tannins still with acid and core fruit flavours for contrast. Vibrant mouthfeel, lengthy. 94 Points

Escarpment Pahi Pinot Noir 2020
Finesse and vibrato on the nose with a mix of fruits and savoury complexity, aromas and flavours of dark berries and plum, there's a VA note, firm tannins and acidity for enhanced mouthfeel. Fruits layer in next for contrast and mid palate flavours. Firmish, taut, dry and with decent length. VG 94 Points

Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noir 2020
Really attractive bouquet with a savoury, dried herb quality, aromas and flavours of dark cherry and fresh red brry fruit scents, oak layers in spice and some mild toasty qualities. Dry, delicious and vibrant with fruit flavours that reflect the bouquet. Lengthy and well made. 96 Points

Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noi 2021
Youthful and powerful bouquet with core dark red fruit scents of plums and dark cherry fruits, ripe and inviting. Oak and fruit deliver a core of power and definition. I notice the oak a bit more, but this wine is young. Saline moments, taut and fresh. A lovely wine and will continue to be complex and long lived. 95 Points

Session 3 Pinot Noir Library Wine Vintage

Martinborough Vineyards Pinot Noir Home Block 2013
Seductive bouquet with a completeness to the bouquet, soft florals, layers of plush soft red fruit scents from strawberry to ripe cranberry, red cherry and red apple skin. Fine velvet textured tannins, integrating and well harmonsied with the fruit. Flavours remain persistent and mouthfeel plush and balanced. Lengthy finish, a lovely expression. 95 Points

Schubert Marion’s Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013
For a 2013 the bouquet has a youthful power and complexity, aromas of clay and stone, barrel spice and vibrato. Dry, fresh, delicious and lengthy. There's a youthful complexity, judicious use of oak allowing a mineral earthy quality and complexity, excellent acid line and core fruit flavours of cherry and spice, apple skin and heirloom strawberry. Lengthy, dry finish with an abundance of tannins showcasing a chalk-like texture. 95 Points

Schubert Block B Pinot Noir 2013
A bouquet with plenty of energy and power, muscle and force. Youthful on the palate with a taut-ish mouthfeel, a gentle squeeze from tannins and acidity layering in youth and carrying complexity. Dry, mealy chalky tannins, core fruit flavours of cherry and strawberry, some dried raspberry then flavours of integrating barrel flavours with brown spices and moderate toasty qualities. Delicious, lengthy and delicious 95 Points

Ata Rangi Pinot Noir 2013
Perfectly weighted bouquet with a finesse and charm, on the palate the same with a harmonious synergy between red fruits and oak, then tannins and acidity. There's a tautness and youthful energy with red fruits core, integrating oak. Wine still developing. There's a gentle quiet and complex savoury quality. Dry, lengthy and well made. 96 Points

Dry River Pinot Noir 2013
Delicious on the nose and palate with a floral sweetness, plush ripe red berry fruits, moderate oak, mineral and spice. Mouthfeel is excellent with an abundance of fine tannins and pristine polished acid line. Flavours of red berry fruits laced with spice, an excellent mouthfeel and quiver as the flavours flourish across the palate. Dry and very long. 96 Points

Kusuda Pinot Noir 2010
Captivating, complex and alluring bouquet. Aromas of plums and fallen leaves, strawberry and delicate baking spices of barrel, roses and earth. Of equal intensity and impact on the palate, flavours are aligned, oak integrate well and tannins impactful with a mineral chalk quality. Dry and very long. 97 Points

Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noir 2013
Seductive and delicate, can't say feminine, but it is. Aromas and flavours of red berries and flowers, delicate spices and fine tannins. Utterly delicious on the palate with a juicy, salivating mouthfeel. Complex, plush and very lengthy. I love it! 96 Points

Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noir 2008
Aromas of a wine that has power and reach, it has primary and secondary scents of red fruits and plum, spice and moderate toast. Dry, taut, velvet tannins and plenty of acid to layer in plushness and length. Delicious and well made. Still ageing. 94 Points

Session 4 "Shifting the Focus" Wine Vintage

Palliser The Griffin Sparkling 2019
Distinctive bouquet and palate from a peach, apples and a whisper of grapefruit, the autolysis is definitive, a brioche and biscuit layer of complexity then lemon and spice. Fine mousse, abundant bubble, softer textures. Crisp, dry and well made. 93 Points

Ata Rangi Sauvignon Blanc 2022
Varietal with a rounded, silky impact on the nose. Flavours of apples and peach, some cape gooseberry then cold stones and a lees quality. Is there a touch of older barrel here? ….... The palate texture has silk and satin touch then fruit flavours and acidity dial in with contrast and mouthfeel. Dry, tasty and great to be able to be reminded of an SB from this region. 94 Points

Te Kairanga WPF Pinot Noir 2020
Abel clone has a distinctive rounded softness, lovely fruit profile and soft tannins texture, soft polished tannins, and a floral touch. Plenty of acid offers contrast and panache. Strawberry and red apple skin. VG 95 Points

Te Kairanga WPF Pinot Noir 2021
A darker cherry and higher oak expression with riper stone fruit and what seems like more oak. Dry, some power and firmness from youth. Persistent, new and textured, lengthy. At the beginning of its journey. 94 Points

Martinborough Vineyards Mary Zelie Pinot Noir 2019
Impactful and bold from lovely ripe fruits and oak. Firm and dry with a plush fruit core, firmish tannins and acid contrast. Delicious, fresh, and well made. A wine for the cellar and an example to celebrate. 95 Points

Schubert Kai Pinot Noir 2016
A really lovely expression and draw with a softness and delicacy. Aromas and flavours of red apple skin and old strawberry with a sense of power and intention. Oak and acidity tie the flavours of the fruits together, an abundance of tannins and with the fruit showing its ability to absorb oak so well in a decent year. Just ready to drink and will continue to develop and age well. VVG. 96 Points

Schubert Syrah 2019
Peppercorn, but not peppery, dark berries and baking spices, meaty with a bacon oak suggestion, clove and toasty barrel. A very bold and expressive bouquet, some savoury and dried spice qualities, firm tannins and bold back bone of acidity. A wine I suspect will age well, still very new and primary, taut and lengthy. Needs food for the moment. VG . 94 Points

Dry River Syrah 2019
Very expressive bouquet, there's a floral plush side and a vibrant mineral and softer oak quality. A bouquet with panache. Youthful, taut, very plush delivering an abundance of tannins with highly polished edges, BB of acid and persistent, long finish. Raspberries and cherries, red apple skin and myriad currants, meats and spices. An excellent wine. VVG. 96 Points

Question: Where can you get a decent espresso coffee in Aotearoa New Zealand at 4:00 am?

Answer: Kitchener’s Cafe - Martinborough

Fine Wines of New Zealand Review - Wairarapa Focus

Session 1 Chardonnay Current Wine Vintage

Session 2 Pinot Noir Current Wine Vintage

Session 3 Pinot Noir Library Wine Vintage

Session 4 "Shifting the Focus" Wine Vintage